ISSEY MIYAKE & IRVING PENN: From Tokyo to Vogue

Writen by Polina Scherer

In the world of fashion, design, photography and even architecture, Issey Miyake embodies many things - innovation, playfulness, and profound technique, deeply rooted in the essence of Japan. Yet, if one were to distill his essence into a single defining trait, it would be his unwavering faith in the beauty of collaboration, in the intricate possibilities of creativity that connects us all.

Issey Miyake in 1988 by Irving Penn, courtesy of the Irving Penn Foundation

The way to creative collaboration

For those unfamiliar with his life, Miyake was born in Hiroshima in 1938 amidst a backdrop of burgeoning industries and educational advancements. Yet, at the tender age of seven, he found himself a mere 3 kilometers from the epicenter of history's most devastating event— the atomic bomb. The tragedy that unfolded on that fateful August day in 1945 marked the beginning of a challenging path, with Miyake enduring the loss of his mother to radiation poisoning and facing his own battle with osteomyelitis, a disease of the bones which characterised his limped walk for the rest of his life.

It seems remarkable then, with such an early life story, that what would come out of it is an optimistic dreamer. Miyake placed the creative pursuit on the highest of pedestals, not just in fashion design, which he strongly believed deserved to be awarded its due respect, but all forms of creative endeavour. In fact, Jay Cocks, who wrote the essay in the book which gathers the works of Miyake and Penn, wrote that he “was friend to architects and sculptors, painters and writers and dancers”. Miyake was not just a passive friend but an active collaborator, driven by remarkable curiosity.

This ethos of collaboration shone brightly in his partnership with Irving Penn, affectionately known as Penn-san to Miyake. Penn, a master of 20th-century photography, brought to the table a rich tapestry of experiences and a unique vision that, when combined with Miyake's designs, transcended the conventional boundaries of fashion photography.

The rise of Irving Penn

Born in 1917, to Russian Jewish immigrants in New Jersey, Penn went on to attend the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Arts, where he studied under legendary photographer and Harpers Bazaar art director Alexey Brodovitch. Although initially wanting to be a painter, Penn eventually started working for Vogue, and quickly rose to be a power house in portraiture, photographing icons such as Salvador Dalí, Sophia Loren, Yves Saint Laurent, Pablo Picasso, Duke Ellington, Louis Armstrong; as well as still life. It is impossible to mention still life photography without Irving Penn - a master at creating story, dynamism and intrigue in objects, this is where Penn ́s unique eye is in full force.

A tale of mutual inspiration

By the time Miyake attended Tama Art University in Tokyo, Penn was already an established fashion photographer, in fact Miyake credits Penn as a strong influence already then. What followed after their first meeting was what we should probably call destiny at work. As Miyake and Penn start to work together, each provides this collaboration with unparalleled lifelong experience and philosophy. Not wanting to interfere with Penn ́s process, Miyake remained in Tokyo and provided him the full support of his team, while Penn sketched and prepped to photograph the designs as they arrived.

Miyake's approach to design—leaving pieces refined yet unfinished—echoed his belief in the dynamic relationship between the garment and its wearer. It was this philosophy that found a kindred spirit in Penn, whose mastery in still life photography added layers of story, dynamism, and intrigue to Miyake's creations. This synergy did not just challenge the norms but created a legacy of work that stands as a dialogue between two masters.

Miyake's reference to the Japanese concept of A ŪN, which “describes a form of communication established when one person throws voiceless messages to another”, in their collaborative work highlights a profound connection—a silent communication that fueled their creative journey. This partnership, a blend of mutual inspiration and respect, has left an indelible mark on the worlds of fashion and photography.

As we reflect on the legacy of Issey Miyake and Irving Penn, their collaboration stands as a beacon of beauty, innovation, and the transformative power of creative synergy. Their work not only produced iconic imagery but also set a precedent for future generations, encouraging all of us to weave our own threads of A ŪN into the tapestry of creative conversation. 

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