SOUTH2 WEST8: How fly fishing became a street fashion statement
The road from fly fishing gear to high-end fashion seems a long one. How come that SOUTH2 WEST8, a niche clothing brand from Hokkaido, ended up collaborating with Supreme?
courtesy of SOUTH2 WEST8
Tenkara
This story starts with the Japanese technique for mountain stream fly fishing, known as “Tenkara”. Dating back over 400 years, Tenkara's origins can be traced to commercial fishermen of Japan who used the technique to catch trout and sell it to ryokans. It slowly evolved from a means of livelihood to a beloved pastime enjoyed by fishing enthusiasts around the world. The authentic method renowns the use of a reel, meaning it relies solely on a rod, line, and fly to capture its prey, making Tenkara a more intuitive and minimalist approach to the sport of fishing. With an abundance of trout in North American rivers, Tenkara quickly made its way from Japan to the States, and gained popularity as a pastime among fishing enthusiasts in the U.S.
courtesy of SOUTH2 WEST8
To understand the integration of Tenkara gear as a high-end fashion statement, we can’t exclude "Heavy Duty Ivy," a subculture that emerged in Japan during the 70s. As it combines elements of traditional American Ivy style with outdoor gear, Heavy Duty Ivy can be described as a fusion of rough functionality and classic preppy aesthetics. Think Oxford Button Down shirts paired with mountain parkas, Levi's 501s, and sturdy leather work boots. The style itself was born in the U.S. by American students in rural areas who blended elements of traditional Ivy style with outdoor clothing. However, it wasn’t until illustrator Yasuhiko Kobayashi coined the term Heavy Duty Ivy in an article for Men’s Club magazine in 1976, that the subculture received an official label in Japan.
Men’s Club magazine in 1976
Creating SOUTH2 WEST8
Enter Kaname Nagaoka: a Kyoto native, lifelong Tenkara enthusiast, and self-professed nature lover. In 2002 he opened his own shop in Sapporo, as an independent retailer. One year later, Nagaoka merged his passion for Tenkara as a sport with Heavy Duty Ivy as a fashion style, leading to the creation of his clothing brand, SOUTH2 WEST8. The Sapporo based flagship store is located at 8 Chome-2 (which is the Japanese district name & block number), hence the atypical name. If you were looking for an abstract meaning we’re sorry to disappoint, the brand name is basically an address.
courtesy of SOUTH2 WEST8
Nagaoka’s first collection dropped in 2003. Since then, SOUTH2 WEST8's collections offer a range of hard wearing apparel, influenced by Tenkara gear, and designed as versatile city-friendly outdoor pieces with striking prints. The brand's signature pocket-heavy design and technical features pay homage to their fishing origins.
Despite achieving international recognition, SOUTH2 WEST8 remains committed to its roots and continues to produce all its collections in Japan. The brand is now part of the Nepenthes group, founded by Keizo Shimizu and Daiki Suzuki, which includes a number of other influential Japanese fashion labels.
courtesy of SOUTH2 WEST8
Gaining foothold outside Japan
With gorpcore at the peak of its popularity and here to stay, SOUTH2 WEST8 gained a following outside of Sapporo, and later outside of Japan. One of the reasons the brand received international attention, especially among streetwear enthusiasts, are its distinctive collaborations.
SOUTH2 WEST8 x Supreme
During the spring of 2021, SOUTH2 WEST8 and Supreme announced their collaboration, marking a massive milestone for Nagaoka’s brand. The collab’s centerpiece featured a colorful tie-dye like print, finished with the brand’s distinctive netted layer. But Supreme wouldn’t be Supreme without dropping unique accessories. For this collab they created a co-branded Tenkara fishing rod produced by Sakura, one of Japan’s leading Tenkara gear producers. If anything, the collaboration with Supreme solidified SOUTH2 WEST8’s reputation as a premier high-end streetwear brand.
South2 West8 x Supreme tenkara rod
Another notable crossover is one with Montana-based painter Ben Miller, who dedicates his life’s work advocating for nature and especially river preservation. Miller mimics the natural patterns of riverscapes by tracing the path of water through his work, using his self-proclaimed “fly-cast painting” technique. He literally uses a tenkara rod and slams the fly at a canvas like a whip. The collaboration with SOUTH2 WEST8 features stunningly arranged color patterns that evoke the sense of a living, breathing canvas.
courtesy of SOUTH2 WEST8 x Ben Miller
SOUTH2 WEST8 positions their apparel as versatile enough to be suitable for both city-life and actual fishing purposes, which is reflected in their regularly updated video series, "Tenkara Sessions," showcasing their gear being used during fly fishing. Be sure to check this session featuring the Supreme collaboration in action.
courtesy of SOUTH2 WEST8
Nagaoka's vision managed to transform Tenkara from a mere fishing technique to a distinctive streetwear brand, reflecting his passion for nature and fly fishing. Continuously pushing the boundaries of its designs and materials, SOUTH2 WEST8 releases new collections every season, consistently astounding its unique fanbase existing of both streetwear and fishing enthusiasts. The future holds great promise for this innovative label in the heart of Hokkaido.
SOUTH2 WEST8 collections may be pretty hard to get your hands on.
These 2 online stores always have a fair collection of SOUTH 2 WEST8 apparel
courtesy of SOUTH2 WEST8
