Alexandra Waespi documents the personal spaces of Gyaru, Otaku, and everything in between
With Tokyo’s never-ending web of subcultures, labels, and communities, it’s often a challenge to place a fashion aesthetic in a single box. Is it decora, Lolita, Fairy Kei, or gyaru? And if it’s the latter, are we talking heisei, hime, or onee?
The sub-labels seem endless, and at the same time they make each visual culture more fixed than they are, as if one can’t flow into the other. We’ve always been more interested in how the people who wear and cultivate these cultures experience them, and what role they play in their lives.
That’s where photographer Alexandra Waespi comes in. After nearly a decade in concert photography, Alex had grown fond of searching for the quiet in between. That search brought her to Tokyo, where she initially hoped to photograph the city’s nail artist scene. But Tokyo did what Tokyo does best, connecting cultures. Before long, Alex was introduced to the worlds of gyaru, otaku, and the creative girls moving between them.
A new curiosity took hold. Alex set out to explore not only these girls’ visual worlds, but what their fashion and personas meant to them, and how they shaped the way they saw themselves and moved through the world. Through long conversations and access to the girls’ most personal spaces, Alex began to see how the girls related to these communities, how fashion shaped their sense of self, and where labels fell short.
We sat down with Alex to talk about her quest into these private worlds, and what she learned along the way.
Nanami│© Alexandra Waespi
You initially went to Tokyo for another project. What happened while you were there that led you to document the world of gyaru, otaku, and creative girls in Tokyo?
I went to nail.sucre in 2023 and Noah did my nails. Her confidence, style and artistry are what drew me in, and after that I couldn’t stop thinking about the artists at nail.sucre and the world of Japanese nail art. I still want to make that project actually.
While I was talking to my translator about the idea, he introduced me to the world of gyaru, which I found out played a big part in shaping the maximalist, high-embellishment nails that I was so interested in.
I became interested in transformation… How we can shift into different personas, almost like alter egos, and how through that you can build a new sense of confidence. I wanted to understand how they did it, what inspired them and what it meant to them.
I found a few girls on instagram and then people started recommending their friends, and it quickly moved away from gyaru into a vast world of diverse creatives.
Minori’s was the first bedroom, and she had never invited anyone to her home before. Her room was like a shrine to her inspirations and creativity. Everything had a place, and you could see how much of her world was built around the things she loved. She told me she has always been confident and playful with fashion since she was a child. Her mom was gyaru. But although she dressed gyaru that day, her style defies definition. She says when she sees her shadow “it’s not human shaped.”
Minori│© Alexandra Waespi
Was there something specific you wanted to learn about these cultures?
I was interested in discovering their visual world. I was trying to understand how it’s all built. Can fashion and the way you present yourself change how you feel inside? Can it build confidence and help you shift into a different way of feeling and being? How do you come up with a persona? The bedroom is the place where it all takes shape in a way.
How did you find the girls? And how open were they to have a stranger document their personal spaces
I met some through instagram. Then one girl would introduce me to a friend, who’d introduce me to another, and it grew organically that way. Some girls had never had anyone over to their home before, not even friends, so I felt very grateful they were open to the project.
I work very much in collaboration. I wanted the girls to show me how they wanted to be seen, and we created it together. Many of the girls have a big online presence, so they are used to being seen and sharing online. Perhaps showing their room was something new… their interior worlds… and there were girls who said no because of this aspect of the project. But all the girls I met were incredibly welcoming. We had tea with Chipi and her boyfriend for hours before even shooting anything.
I want to celebrate the girls and share their bold creativity with the world. Interviews were important to make sure their voices are heard alongside the images.
Chipi│© Alexandra Waespi
Did you notice a common thread in your conversations that connected these subcultures?
A common thread is the gyaru mind: confidence, self-love, a positive outlook, and doing what you want.
Someone would say “meet my friend, she’s gyaru,” and when I met her she’d tell me she wasn’t gyaru at all, but she’d relate to gyaru mind. That’s what emerged from all of this.
Another common thread is that the rooms are really safe spaces, filled with everything they love, it’s sacred.
Noah says, “My room feels like a moodboard for my nail art. The atmosphere, colours, lighting and objects around me influence the emotions and aesthetics I create.”
Chipi tells me she feels like a doll and I truly felt her room to be the most amazing doll house. Her bedroom becomes an extension of this identity. She says, “My room is proof of how I’ve protected myself all this time. It’s overflowing with all the cute things I love, and being in this space heals me and stops me from losing sight of who I am. Especially with work, there are times when I feel like I’m losing myself, so every day my room reminds me of the person I’m supposed to be. On weekdays I come home and take off my ‘work armour,’ and on weekends I dream about what kind of princess I want to become. Every morning I wake up with Tear-chan (my cat), surrounded by the cute things and fragrances I love. I drink fragrant tea and inspiration for my own version of ‘cute’ just pours out of me endlessly. It’s a sacred place.”
Also there are always many plushies in every room!
Noah│© Alexandra Waespi
How do the girls themselves experience the culture they’re part of? Do they proudly embrace the gyaru or otaku label?
Yes, the label is very broad. About half or more of the girls are doing their own thing creatively.
The ones who identify with gyaru and otaku are proud of it. The Onegai Twins with otaku and Suzukei with heisei gyaru for example, and the lolitas too. Jorairai is a lolita who also loves and feels gyaru, and Kei has been and loved gothic lolita since she was young.
I found some came to gyaru because they wanted to embody what gyaru are: positive and confident. Zoey for example told me “I am not a typical gyaru but I am a gyaru by heart.”
When I asked what gyaru means to them, the answers were often similar, which speaks to the broadness of the term now:
“gyaru are really happy girls who are honest with feelings. I think I’m a bit shy actually. But I admire that energetic vibe. I want to become like that.”
Suzukei│© Alexandra Waespi
“Wearing pink Lolita makes me feel so comforted. When I walk down the street, grandmothers even compliment me, which makes me more confident, even though I’m already a confident person.”
Jorairai│© Alexandra Waespi
“I am not really but I admire gyaru. When I was a kid, gyaru helped me multiple times. To me, gyaru means: being true to what you love.”
Pion│© Alexandra Waespi
“For me, gyaru means not being afraid. ”
Kei│© Alexandra Waespi
“Positive, doing what you want, liking what you like. I also think I’m like that. Gyaru is for positive, strong women, always bright. I want to become that… Strong and positive. ”
Xiaqua│© Alexandra Waespi
“It’s not only about appearance. It’s also about the vibe. gyaru are people who give you energy from their personality and make you want to be more positive yourself. That’s why I really love gyaru.”
Ayumi│© Alexandra Waespi
Are there any other subcultures you encountered in Tokyo that you’d like to document in the future?
I want to meet more Gyaru and follow it through the generations. I’m interested to meet women who never left it, or who were part of its origin. A few Egg models were up for the project, but they live in Gunma so I want to go there. I am also interested in the new young generation of Gyaru. I've seen some kogyaru schools online and I would love to meet them. I’m coming back next year to finish the project.
Hao│© Alexandra Waespi
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Alexandra Waespi documents the world of Gyaru, Otaku, and everything in between.